14 – Kkachisan 까치산

14 - Kkachisan

Kkachisan 까치산
The Calligrapher’s Graveyard
Subway: Namseong (Line 7)
Distance hiked: 1.90 km
Time: 57:56

It started out as a not-so-promising hike. A schlepp of a mountain, Kkachisan Park did not seem very popular. I encountered virtually nothing interesting except for two well-dressed puppies. some elderly hikers on their cellphones, and the most muscular ajusshi I’ve seen doing roundhouse kicks near the exercise machines. But hike I must and hike I did, and finally, the second half of the experience gave way to more variety. Some wooden birds that reminded me of jangseung (Korean totem poles) came to view, as well as more hikers. But it was near the foot of the mountain that made me pause. What’s that beyond the fence? Oh wow! A graveyard! More specifically, it where Yi Jeongyeong, one of the greatest calligraphers of the mid-Joseon period. (Some trivia: He used the penname Seogok. He was from Jeonju, which to me will always be Land of Amazing Bibimbap.) I’m beginning to like this pattern of initially going, Meh, at a hike, only to be completely bewitched by it. Hurray!


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